One with Nature

My friend Ahmed, from Chicago, has the award of being the first to visit me during this journey. He just left after a nine day tour of Thailand. We conquered Bangkok, including a night of Muay Thai boxing, and headed for the countryside. Kanchanaburi is sereral hours west of Bangkok very near the border of Myanmar.

A walk on the River Kwai Bridge found us facing a head-on train as we walked the tracks. We stepped to the side platform and waved at the passengers inside. A sobering history lesson at a museum enlightened us of the tear-jerking story of how over 100,000 POWs and Asians died as the Japanese forced them to work in unforgiveable conditions to complete the bridge to aid their last attempt war strategies during WWII. A portion of the Thai-Myanmar railway otherwise known as "Death Railway" still exists for memorial. I left the all-too-serious museum to explore the memorial track and found a beautiful hiking trail. It was so brilliant, I decided to go as far as I could before I had to be back to catch my ride. That great idea resulted with me losing track of time and having to run for 35 minutes in order for my group to not have to wait on me. No, 35 minutes is not that long but it was a hilly, rocky path in near 100 degree heat with about a 10-story stair climb at the end.

Our "guesthouse" was a series of connected huts that floated on a river. When a boat passed by and created waves, the whole structure rocked. Outside each area was a bamboo deck that extended out from the hut. The room consisted of a bed and a bathroom which had a floor made up of wood planks covered with chicken wire. You could see the river pass beneath you. The sink, shower, and yes toilet, emptied into the river below. Just imagine what you could see float away...

Traditional Thai meals were served on our bamboo deck. The days were full of adventure and the evenings were spent relaxing along the river. No city noise. No car horns. No yelling. No street food smells. Nature at it's best. Honestly, it just doesn't get much better.

One early morning we played in the river with elephants. While riding them, they leaned and knealt in the water until they were submerged. To stay on, it was as if I was riding a slow-motion mechanical bull. Their eye contact is so intense. Their rough dirty bodies and stubbly hair ruined the shirt I was wearing. (But that actually makes it easier to rid a few things in my backpack for new items I've purchased.) They are truly the most magnificant creatures! -- Hey Rohini, I thought of you and your like-minded love for them. I know you understand what I'm talking about. -- Later in the day, a 55 year old lass took us for a ride along the mountainside.

We explored caves and hiked a 4km, 7-story waterfall with breathtaking views. At the top, we cooled off in the swimming holes. Exquisitely relaxing except for the fish nibbling at you if you stayed still too long.

Bamboo rafting one day was followed by a visit to the Tiger Temple. A monk founded this site and raises the tigers with "the imprint of the human touch". Therefore, they do not fear humans. Visitors can sit and touch tigers of all sizes and ages, with the assistance of a tiger trainer. Unfortunately, my camera's battery died. Therefore, I await to receive the amazing photos from Ahmed once he returns home. It was so brilliant to have the head of a huge tiger resting on my lap as I sat on the ground. The fur was amazinglysoft. I don't know how many times I've stood within the Chicago Zoo waiting for a good look at one just to see their beauty. Hi Kitties. And now, I've sat with them and felt their fur. Better photos to come... The Tiger Temple is on a sort of farm with a Temple. Investigation led us to a monk. We chatted. We received blessing. Various animals roam the property and walk alongside you on the path; wild boars followed by tiny baby boars, horses, ponies, pigs, cows, bulls, peacocks, chickens, dogs. At one point, food was dropped in huge piles along the main road. Harmoniously, these animals stand side-by-side living in this small world. It really was a site but it's difficult to describe unless you were there. I found myself very much in the moment and appreciative of the world around me. The universe is a funny place.

On our return to Bangkok, we decided to leave early the next morning via bus and head to the island of Koh Chang. A small, quiet island 5 hours southeast of Bangkok. Cambodia is a boatride to the east. We wated to be as close to the water as possible and so secured this bungalow on stilts right at the waters edge. When the tide came in, it reached the stilts. At the base of the steps, were two wood swings and a tire swing hung perched from a tree above the sand a few meters away. A mosquito net allowed us to sleep with the door and window open at night. Note, there is no bathroom in this little abode requiring us to walk a short distance. Primitive but absolutely worth it. A private little paradise. Breathtaking at sunrise and sunset.

We rented a motorbike and Ahmed drove us long the coast stopping to take in the views, rope swing into a creek with local boys, shop, and relax at different beach areas. The purchase of a hammock will surely provide an interesting story down the road. The first annual Koh Chang World Music and Fruit Festival greeted us for an evening. Ahmed competed on stage in the International Coconut Carving Contest. He beat out his competitor (Nadia from New York) but only closely lost to the reigning Koh Chang champion. Cheers rang out nontheless for his valiant effort!

There are always lessons to be learned while traveling. We stood on the side of the road with our bags in the blazing sun trying to get a taxi to take us to the pier. We had to reach mainland in order to catch the bus to Bangkok which would alredy be cutting it close for Ahmed to make it to the airport in time. 15 taxis or so stopped but refused to take us to the pier. 10 minutes they kept saying. We're sure there is some sort of system but it certainly does not make sense. Monetary bribery got us a short distance but were then stranded again with now other people needing to get to the pier. Eventually, we secured a taxi with still no explanation of the methodology. I love not being on a schedule and this is exactly why. I tend not to plan ahead and have no expectations of when I will reach the next destination. I'm simply along for the ride.... and the cultural essence.

The story continues...

Ok, for those of you who read the previous post days before this one... You're Welcome for the suspense! Upon arrival to Vang Vien, two guys from Holland joined my already group of three after having chatted on the four hour bus ride. We chose a guesthouse, dropped our bags and went in search of a place for dinner by the river.

Dinner turned into a great night scene where travelers converge, share stories and talk of next adventures. Elevated bamboo huts and hammocks is the setting. Eventually the primary lights are extinguished with guests left in darkness. Perfect setting for the scene of the crime. It was not until the next morning when I went to pay for breakfast that I realized I had been the latest target! (My new friends happily paid for my meal.) I spent the next few hours talking to the locals, finding someone who could at least half translate for me and developing a plan of action. Apparently, there has been a series of thefts at this open-air bar/restaurant. I refused the idea of letting the game end there.

Here was the plan:
I asked the bar guys to handwrite a sign (in English and Laos) which was hung directly below their sign. (Yes, pix to come.) REWARD
STOLEN PASSPORT (U.S.)
$10,000,000 KIP (by the way, this is about $800 dollars)
My hope was that some greedy Laos would go looking for the outrageously priced reward of a desperate American who wanted her passport back. If it worked, the bar guys were to notify me of the time for the exchange of the passport/reward. I would then play hard ball and take my passport at the moment they gave proof it's mine without forking over any money. In the daylight with witnesses all around. What could go wrong? My fellow male travelers agreed this sounded like a good idea until I said I wanted to take care of it by myself. In other words, "me do it myself", right family of mine? Anyone who really knows me knows that I wouldn't want it any other way. I did however ask them to sit a few tables away in case of emergency.

Within hours, the first phone call was received. The information was vague and mysterious. After the second call, I began to believe the bar guys were playing a game with me. So what did I do? I played back. The Laos police were of no help...not that it was a surprise. After many conversations and stragetic questions and threats (by me), my passport was magically "dropped off" at the bar! Perhaps it was my valiant effort? Perhaps it was the bar guys all along and they decided they messed with the wrong girl? I will never know. Checkmate! I win.

Sidenote: I awoke that morning because I felt the bugs crawling on me and when I jumped out of bed and onto the floor, I realized my room was flooded. A sever rainstorm coupled with a door that didn't reach the floor. There was no other furniture in the room so my backpack had remained on the floor. A few of my things were soaked but I gave a silent thanks to the inventor of plastic ziplock bags, which is exactly what I use to efficiently pack all my clothes... including my camera!

This is turning into a long post but many have requested that I describe the places I vist... and Laos is certainly worth noting!

Vientiane, the capital, is a quaint and fairly quiet town. So quiet that we went bowling one night! There is a beautiful fountain which you can only have the pleasure of seeing if you're there at the right moments of the day. The Mekong River which is boasted by the town was an ill sight due to low water level in that area. Blue Bananas restaurant was a favorite...it's air conditioned! Simon, a gent from England, fell in love and stayed in the City after having to rest a couple weeks after breaking two ribs.

Vang Vien, a known route of the backpacker. A sort of Fraternity/Sorority World Gathering. The two key highlights? Spend the day tubing down the river. In the evening, check out the "Happy" bars with special Happy Menu included. Tubing was so great we did it two days in a row! A tuk-tuk takes you up river where you then literally float along and stop at bars on either side. if you don't make it to the side, they throw you a stick and they pull you in. Each bar is equipped with varied-heights of elevated bamboo platforms where you grab a trapeze bar (a piece of rounded wood), jump off and swing back and forth until you decide to drop into the river. It becomes a sort of competition as most eyes are on the people jumping. I may not get to enjoy my summer beach volleyball in Chicago but I did get to play in the mountains of Laos at one of the stops! The river ride is about 4Km long. It was dark both nights by the time we reached the last bar. You can have a boat take you back or you can float along in the dark and hope you figure out where to get off. I convinced everyone to go by river. That it would be an experience. There was a lot of apprehension but I finally convinced 8 people to do it. For the record, they all thanked me afterwards!

Luang Prabang, a bigger, more expensive city in Northern Laos. French influence still prominent. Amazing baguettes...thank you France! The early nightlife resulted in travelers gathering at the guesthouse balconies. For us, one night was filled with three hours of Rummy cards. One day we spent the morning visiting some old caves via a 2-hour boat ride each way followed by a drive to some waterfalls. The Falls were beautiful but it downpoured so everyone was covered in mud after falling while trying to climb to the top.

My 10-hour bus ride back to the capital to cross the border and return to Bangkok via night train? 10 of the 50 passengers were puking most of the way due to the S-curve roads in the mountains. The air conditioning stopped. The bus windows did not open. And the 90 year old woman next to me tried to hand me her bag of vomit. I declined (probably with a face of horror) but did help her the whole way with a variety of tasks.

Leaving Laos, I had made about 1 million new friends...tiny ants! They are everywhere: in your bed, in your luggage, climbing the walls, at your feet when you turn on the shower. It's not easy to feel clean but it feels so good to take that cold shower!

It may sound as if Laos handed me a few obstacles but that is the life of a traveler. I love it!
If you ever have the chance to visit Laos, definitley go! It's an amazing country that I believe will soon lose its charm and become another country that is no longer unknown.

Tales from Laos

Leaving Bangkok, I boarded the night train for the land of Laos. After a 12-hour, restless night sleep on the upper bunk and a 2-hour border crossing process (including Tuk-Tuk, bus, Tuk-Tuk, bus), I arrived in Vientiane, Laos. Enter to the scene my traveling companions for the last 10 days: Jimmy and Romin, a gay couple from London. It has certainly added to the adventure...their lover's quarrel to say the least. The blokes are fun though!

I anticipated being here for only a few days, but this is the fifth town I'm visiting in Laos. I believe it would take a Nobel Prizine Winning writer to only begin to capture the essence of Laos! Truly beautiful. Luscious green mountains. Steep jagged cliffs. Magnificent Mekong River. Fairly progressive City of Luang Prabang equally matches the tiny villages with no electricity or running water.

Ok, so the service here is spotty right now. Must run... will update in a few days. Stay tuned because the tales to come include my passport and money being stolen as well as the possible boarding of a Laos Cargo Ship tomorrow to take me halfway back to Bangkok!

Loving Laos!!!